Yard

Leaves
What’s the connection between the leaves in your yard and the number of song birds in your neighborhood? Be careful how you care for your lawn and you may never find out. There is a delicate balance in nature. You may not think that the actions of one person, you, can make a difference but they can.

If you rake your leaves into the street, those leaves can wash into storm drains and clog them up. This causes flooding. But if they keep moving through the storm drains, they end up in a stream. If you put fertilizers or pesticides on your lawn, some of it will stay on your lawn but some of it will end up in a stream. If you drain the gas from your lawn mower into a ditch, it will end up in a stream. All of these things change the balance of nutrients in streams. Upsetting the balance can increase the growth of algae. Algae blocks sunlight from reaching plants underwater. This leads to a decrease in fish populations. Without plants and fish, how long can the insects survive? What about birds and wildlife? Life in the stream can actually cease to exist (except for some smelly algae).

Keeping your leaves and other yard waste out of streets and storm drains is just as important as not pouring gasoline into a lake. Leaves may seem harmless but for a stream, they’re not. The health of local streams is vital for drinking water, fishing and swimming. 

Leaves, like grass, are best managed with frequent mowing to mulch them into the soil. Composting them is another great option. The nutrients from the leaves may not be good for streams but they are great for your soil. If you’re going to put down mulch anyway, why not put down a layer of leaves first and then mulch over the top?

Remind professionals you may hire to perform lawn care services to prevent grass clippings and yard wastes from being blown, swept or disposed of in the street or curb. Leaves, grass and brush can be composted, recycled or hauled off to a composting facility for proper disposal. Ask the company you hire if they are aware of current government guidelines or laws about the disposal of yard waste. Chapter 7, Article 8 of the Code of the City Independence gives the City's regulations on polluting any waters of the State.

Lawn Chemicals
Lawn chemicals are the fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides used in lawn and garden care. When lawn chemicals are applied improperly, they can run off into streams, harming fish and other animals and contaminating our drinking water. Over-application of any lawn chemical can result in runoff that carries toxic levels of chemicals or excessive nutrients into lakes, streams and groundwater. 

Fertilizers usually contain nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (potash). Nitrogen is an important lawn nutrient, but it can contaminate groundwater with nitrates. Phosphorous can promote excess weed growth in lakes and ponds and contaminate groundwater, while the chloride that is often combined with potassium in potash is also harmful. Some lawn chemicals threaten native flowers and grasses by harming beneficial insects that safely control weeds and unwanted insects.

When using lawn chemicals, become familiar with a product’s toxicity and potential environmental impact. The use of lawn chemicals accounts for the majority of wildlife poisonings reported to the Environmental Protection Agency. Lawn chemicals can be absorbed through the skin, swallowed or inhaled. During application, lawn chemicals can drift and settle on ponds, laundry, toys, pools and furniture. Even pets are at risk — studies show that the rates of lymphoma in pets of pesticide users are significantly higher than occurrences in the pets of non-chemical users. Several types of cancer, immuno-response deficiencies, neurological diseases, and birth defects have been associated with exposure to lawn chemicals. By releasing chemical toxins into the environment, air and water quality suffer, ultimately causing health problems.

Fortunately, there are some things that you can do to lessen the effect lawn chemicals have on water quality:

• Try using compost or organic lawn chemical alternatives. Composting creates an organic, slow-release fertilizer and soil enhancing material.
• Landscape with native plants, grasses and flower species whenever possible. A natural lawn reduces or eliminates the need for lawn chemicals. For help in choosing native plants, check out www.grownative.org.
• Test the soil for nutrient deficiencies before using lawn chemicals.
• Read labels on lawn chemicals carefully and always apply products sparingly.
• Use caution on slopes and lawn edges so fertilizer will not wash into nearby storm sewers or waterways.
• Allow proper drying time for liquid chemicals, and never use lawn chemicals before a heavy rainfall is expected.
• Use Lawn Chemicals Wisely

Composting
Many of the kitchen scraps that we send down the disposal and much of the yard wastes we dispose of can be put to better use as compost. Compost is decomposed organic material made from such ingredients as leaves, grass clippings, shredded twigs and some kitchen scraps. Composting is a practical and convenient way to reuse your lawn, garden and certain household wastes.

The composting process involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria. Once all the components are in place, a complex feeding pattern begins that involves hundreds of different organisms, including bacteria, fungi, worms and insects. What remains after these organisms break down organic refuse is the rich compost that nourishes lawns and gardens.

Backyard composting of organic waste creates natural soil additives for use on lawns and gardens, and around the house. Other benefits of using organic compost:

• Reduces soil erosion and water runoff 
• Assists soil in holding nutrients, which reduces the need for fertilizers 
• Promotes healthier plants that are less susceptible to disease and insects
• Improves water absorption into soil and by plants
• With the addition of compost, sandy soils hold water better, and clay soils drain faster

Make your own compost pile:

• Locate your pile on a well-drained site which would benefit from nutrient runoff, but avoid areas adjacent to streams and other waterways.
• To ensure good aeration, start your pile with a three-inch layer of course plant material such as small twigs, or use a wooden pallet. Build successive layers of leaves, grass clippings, food scraps, and other green matter. For more rapid decomposition, chop and mix components together.
• Cover layers with 1–2 inches of soil or manure to add nitrogen to the process. 
• During dry weather, keep the pile moist. In cold winter months, cover the pile with black plastic to insulate and shed excess water. 
• Mix compost with a pitchfork after six weeks. This helps aerate the pile, and keeps the bacterial processes from overheating.
• Making And Using Compost

Rain Gardens
Catching water in a rain garden allows it to slowly filter into the ground. This means less rainwater is lost into our storm sewers which also means there is less flooding and erosion in our streams. What a beautiful way to improve the quality of water in our streams and creeks! Keeping water on site and letting it “perc” into the soil also means more water is available to recharge the water table underground.

It is important to locate your rain garden where it will collect the most amount of rainfall runoff possible. Placing your rain garden downhill from paved surfaces where water would naturally flow will maximize its ability to collect runoff. You can even direct the water from your roof into your rain garden.

Rain gardens can be any shape or size. They are best located on level to moderate slopes. The most logical location for your rain garden is in an existing low spot in your yard. Be sure to place it at least 10 feet from buildings to keep water from seeping into and damaging the foundation. 

Once you’ve created your plot by digging a 4 to 8 inch depression with gradually sloping sides, it’s time to choose plants. Native plants are best. They tolerate short periods of standing water, are drought tolerant, and their deep roots make it easy for water to move down into the soil. Plants like Black-Eyed Susan, Blue Sage, Prairie Blazing Star and Little Blue Stem may be good choices for full sun while varieties of Coneflower, Blue Lobelia and Cardinal Flower may be better for partial shade. Check out www.grownative.org for help in choosing plants. You may want to test your soil’s ability to hold water to make sure your rain garden will drain but not drain too quickly. The plants will need watering while they establish themselves and a 3 inch layer of mulch around them will prevent soil erosion.

How to Build Your Own Rain Garden